A Year of Make Do and Mend

Well, I'm a proud step-mama. My eldest step-son and his wife are both graduating with their PhDs next May! Keep in mind that these "kids" are 2 and 3 years younger than I, but that means we actually get along really well because we all grew up with the same stuff and we have very similar interests, which is super cool.
What does this have to do with "Make Do and Mend"? Well, my little smarty-pants darlings are having their graduation party at Disney World! Woohooo! My guys and I are so excited! However, this does mean a year of living frugally and going after the best price and foregoing things I'd normally get without thinking about it too much.
To be honest, we don't need anything. We have enough clothes and toys and movies for now. The boys are growing, of course, so they'll get stuff as needed, but I will be scouring the sale racks for school clothes. There never seem to be many boys things at the thrift stores. Maybe because they're harder on their clothes, or perhaps because they don't have as many clothes to begin with - I have no idea, but I sure have a hard time finding stuff for them at the thrift stores.
Besides, I have so many projects I could be making to wear. Sadly, last year I put on some weight and I don't fit most of my patterns. Part of me thinks I should just make the stuff anyway and sell it. Another part of me wants to lose the weight, while yet another part of me figures I could probably modify the patterns to fit my current size. The sum of these parts gets overwhelmed and freaks out and does nothing, but since I have some motivation, e.g. Disney World, I may actually get a move on to do these things. I know, I know. You've heard that before. We'll see how that goes.
By the way, I now have blue hair. I'm not sure I like it. It's a pretty color, and I've always wanted to do something out of the reds/pinks, but it seems so dark. I'm not a dark person. I put it over my natural hair color as well as the part I already had pink and bleach blond. The bleached area is the prettiest part of it. The rest looks sort of green and sad. Maybe I'll like it more once I get a trim. The pretty part is the color of the Caribbean, so I don't mind that. It kinda makes me want to go SCUBA diving, though. I haven't been in over 2 years and I really want to get back in the ocean.
Oh, no!
Speaking of hair and getting it trimmed, I'll have to go back to Fantastic Sam's for my haircuts if I'm living frugally. Sad sauce! I finally found a stylist I really like, but she costs $45, $50 with the tip. Dang it. I may have to consider her a necessity. I really like her work on my hair.
I also have a website for my massage therapy student business, www.catalystbodyworkbytracie.com. Be sure to go visit it. I'll be adding some updates shortly, since I'll be learning a new technique in Shiatsu after this week, I'm really excited about it. It has more of the karate chop type massage that you normally think of when someone mentions eastern massage modalities. Even though my thumbs have gotten stronger over the past 6 weeks, they do get tired when I have a lot of clients. Or when my clients wear jeans. That hurts like crazy the next day!
Well, I've gotten off topic quite a lot in this entry. Don't worry, I've taken my medication. I just have a lot on my mind.  Like coupon clipping and getting groceries while avoiding WalMart, keeping the bills down and reminding the boys that we can't buy a bunch of toys if we want to afford Disney World. All while keeping up with my studies and the household (thankfully, my mom is coming up this summer during my school days to help out around the house. I really couldn't do this without her). First World problems that I'm grateful to have, really.
So, where shall I start on this Make Do and Mend year? Well, my little flowerpots, I think I'll start with the Sunday supplements and clip the coupons and look for deals. Though I'd like to know why there are never any coupons for the stuff I actually use...?

Spring cleaning - Mid-week Edition

Aaahhh... It's finally feeling like Spring in the Minneapolis 'burbs. I'm on a cleaning jag. This never happens, so I have to write about it. It's a pretty big deal.
Today, since it's finally going to be warm and not rainy, I'm going to rake the yard, if for no other reason than to get outside and enjoy the warmer weather. I may only get the front yard done, but you know, that's something.
I'm also looking forward to going through my kids' clothes. I know they've grown out of a lot of stuff. My problem is that my younger son is fairly small framed compared to my older son. I don't know if I should hang on to clothes for him or donate them. It'll be at least 3 years before he'll be able to wear them. Do I really want to hang on to that stuff? Boys clothes are very much lacking in the thrift stores. Perhaps boys are simply harder on their stuff or they just don't get as many clothes as little girls do. I'm not sure. There's a very large part of me that wants to donate them.
Yesterday, I not only worked on Rachel's quilt, but I finished (or almost finished) three other projects that have been sitting around and cut fabric for a table runner and place mats. Yeah, the creative version of cleaning is slow going. I know that and I'm just going to make peace with it.
I even did some data entry on my pattern spread sheet. I had started out looking for a tunic pattern for some really fun fabric I found the other day. You know me. I can't go to the fabric store and only buy thread. Sadly, all the tunic patterns I have are not what I want to use for this fabric. I guess I'll have to make my own pattern. What I really want is something sort of peasant-y. Hmmm... you know what? I was searching tunics, not peasant. Duh. Well, to be fair, I really did start out wanting to make a tunic.
It wasn't until I got online to look at pattern inspiration that the peasant thing really popped up. I haven't had a peasant-style top or dress in ages. Since I was in the Society for Creative Anachronism and being a serving wench for feasts. This print is nowhere near "period" though. I have decided however, that my own personal authentic style has very little to do with things that are specifically "right".
How is your Spring cleaning progressing? Is it? Have you even started? Have you even thought about it? It's not something I've really thought about in the past. No need to beat yourself up if you haven't. But perhaps it's time...

Friday's Field Trip

March's Friday Field Trip was to JoAnn's Fabric and Crafts in Edina's YorkTown Mall. I was the only one to show up, but that's cool because part of the reason I'm doing the field trips is to force myself to get out of the house more often.

Here's my lesson sheet if you want to copy it. Fair warning, when I copy and pasted it into my blog, the formatting got all ferkachte. Meh. Echt.

JoAnn Fabric and Craft Field Trip

February 22, 2014

Sewnday Morning Musings – Toots Hodgdon

• v How do I find a pattern? - Finding patterns is pretty easy. It's a bit like going to the library and using the old Dewey Decimal System. Only not that organized. By that I mean, in the DDS books are given a number based on subject or author, patterns are given a number, but I'll be dipped if I can figure out a system. 
•   First, know what you're looking for. You can waste many an afternoon in the pattern books, so it's best to have a plan of attack before you head out. All of the patterns books are arranged pretty much the same.
• 
• 
  
•     Beyond that, here are some other things to consider when pattern shopping:
•   §  Ability - all patterns will tell you their level of difficulty, usually broken down into Easy, Intermediate, Advanced and the occasional Professional. Only you know your level of expertise, so choose wisely.
•   §  Sizes - be sure you have accurate measurements of the person for whom you are sewing. I cannot stress this enough. Some patterns will include multiple sizes in one envelope. This rocks, you just have to make sure you have the right size range. It doesn't rock if your person is between sizes of two different envelopes. Go with the larger size. 'Tis always easier to take in than let out. Always. Don't forget that these pattern sizes are not going to correlate to your ready-to-wear sizes. Think of prom or bridal sizes. They're made to measure. Ready-to-wear sizes will fit a small range of measurements. Be prepared for your pattern size to be at least 2 numbers larger than what you get at Target or wherever. Beware of vintage patterns. The sizes are different. Always go by the measurements.



The flap is where you'll often find a measurement guide, also in metric for the rest of the world.

  §  How to read the envelope -

From top:

Fabric suggestions - yep, the companies have designed these things with specific fabrics in mind. Not that you couldn't try it with something different, but in the design of the garment, weight, drape and stretch have been considered. It's best not to deviate too far from these suggestions.

This next area shows how much fabric you need to buy for your project depending on the style (view) you're making and your size. I typically round up to the nearest half yard. You know, just in case.
Lining - Make sure you get some lining if your pattern calls for it. I personally prefer a light cotton or silk lining for just about everything. Synthetics (even the so-called cling-free kind) generate more static than natural fibers. There are some polyester linings that are called cling free - these won't cling to other fabrics but may stick to you. Hang free linings won't stick to you, but may stick to other fabrics.
Contrast fabrics - don't forget to get your contrasting fabric or overlays if your pattern requires.
Notions - Don't know why they're called notions other than it's a pretty good notion to have them to complete your project. These are things like zippers, elastics, buttons, of course thread. Be sure to use the recommended sizes and types for zippers and buttons. A longer zipper may be used, but it's not always easy to work with.

From top:

 It’s how much?! - Yeah, patterns can be spendy. I personally belong to the BMV.com (Butterick/McCall's/Vogue) club and purchase most of my patterns when they're having a sale. Fabric stores will often have sale on patterns, too. Never pay full price for a pattern unless you have an emergency prom dress to make or something like that. I've also found patterns at thrift stores for less than a dollar. Sometimes you get stuck with only a portion of the pattern, but often they've never even been used. 

Ability level

The DDS code - this is how you will find your pattern in the drawers.

Project descriptions by view.

Size combinations of what is in the envelope. Make sure you've got the right one.

•   §  What if I need more than one size? - If you need to make more than one size of the same thing, the easiest thing to do (rather than getting separate patterns - $$$) is to purchase some inexpensive muslin or gridded interfacing. Trace the patterns onto that for each one you need. Believe me, it's more cost effective than buying a bunch of patterns and cutting each size separately.
• 
  
• 
  
•    How to read Fabric Bolt Labels

•   §  Size - most fabrics come in one of two widths, 45" and 60" for fashion fabric. Nearly all home decorator fabric is 60". Though you may or may not actually get that full width. The narrower fabrics may be anywhere from 40" to 45" and the wider fabrics can actually be anywhere from 54" to 60" wide for example, the above bolt label shows 057 IN (57") for the width. If you have your doubts, measure the width before you purchase. Few things are as sad as finding a fabulous fabric, getting the amount required and discovering you could really use an additional 1/8 or even 1/4 of your fabric. Also, if it's a print, measure the print area. The print may not run selvedge to selvedge (edge to edge). I've seen prints which leave up to a total of 5 inches unprinted. That's rare, but it can happen.
•   §  Content - Your bolt end label will tell you what the fiber content is for the fabric.  Well, it should. I've seen bolt labels which read, for example: 70% polyester, 30% unknown. That's always fun. The unknown fiber will probably be another kind of synthetic if the main fiber is and most likely will be another natural fiber if the main one is. Not always the case, to be sure, but often. You can always do a burn test to figure out what fibers you've got, if you're so inclined. The above is 100% polyester. 
•   §  Cleaning method - This is important! No, really! Think about how you care for the clothes you've already got. Are you very particular about how they're washed? Does it bother you to have to go to the dry cleaner? The bolt label will tell you how your fabric should be cared for. If it does not, but you see an alpha-numeric code (such as "D2") on the label, you can ask your person at the cutting table to look up the code for you. They should have a reference book somewhere back there that will crack the code and tell you how to wash your fabric. Don't let them tell you they don't have such a thing. They do. Oh, yes. They do.
•    §  Handy clues - Bolts of fabric are wound with anywhere from 10 to 15 yards per bolt. Sometimes someone will have handwritten on the end "9.5" or "9 1/2" which means the original bolt had that amount wound on it. This is often the end piece and the quality may not be consistent. Check for printing alignment. The above bolt was wound with 8 yards and it's listed on the left side. Being that it's printed and not handwritten, you shouldn't have to worry about the print.
•     Occasionally you may find a brightly colored blank sticker on the end. This means that there are more than one piece wrapped on the bolt. This may mean there's a seam going across it somewhere or that there are separate pieces on the bolt. Sometimes employees will consolidate bolts and will write on the end that there's more than one piece.
•   You can guesstimate how much fabric is left on the bolt board (not a tube, mind, the flat cardboards) by counting the number of layers on the fold are on one side of the board. Every two layers is approximately one yard. This can come in handy when there doesn't look like enough on the bolt.
• 
  
• 
  
•    Which thread is the right thread for my project?
•   §  Seam/construction thread - Cotton or poly/cotton all-purpose. Use the 100% cotton for 100% natural fibers and the blend for synthetics and blends. This will prevent any weird shrinkage issues. 
•   §  Quilting thread
• ¨     Hand  - a bit heavier, since you won't have the double thread over and under your quilt layers.
• ¨     Machine - typically very much like 100% cotton all-purpose (I've used all-purpose for quilting in a pinch) 
•   §  Machine Embroidery thread - usually rayon. You do not want to use this for construction sewing. It's not made for that and your seams will not be sturdy. It's made to be pretty.
•   §  Serger thread - Comes on cones. You can find it in either 100% cotton or in a blend to suit your needs. Most of the time you're serging knit fabrics and a lot of those are blends anymore.
•   §  Specialty threads - Button thread - stronger and thicker than regular thread and should be used for buttons that get heavy duty use, like on a winter coat.
•     Denim thread - is made for heavier fabrics, ie denim, duck or canvas. It doesn't come in as many colors as your all-purpose variety.
•     Upholstery thread - this stuff is very heavy and made for  - you guessed it - upholstering furniture. You can also use it for buttons on cushions which get a lot of wear and tear.
• 
  
•         Tools, tools, tools!
•    §  I need a wha’? - There are so many tools out these days to help make the sewing process easier and faster. I'll probably end up doing a piece just on tools alone. You don't need them all.
•   §  Machines
• ¨     Sewing - know what you plan on sewing. Don't get more machine than you need.
• ¨     Serging - I love my serger, I really do. It's awesome for working with knits. I just wish they'd find a way to make them easier to thread and clean. 
• ¨     Specialty - these can be anything from embroidery machines to long arm quilters.
•   §  Cut the stuff
• ¨     Blades and self-healing mats - I don't know how quilters did it before Olfa and the other blade brands came out with rotary blades and self-healing mats. Well, I do actually, and it sucked. No lie. I don't envy anyone who made quilts before these miracles came out.
• ¨     Pinker - this is the one with the ziggy-zaggy blades. They're excellent for cutting fabrics that fray easily.
• ¨     Shears - your basic cutters. I like spring-loaded ones.
• ¨     Small scissors - I have a couple pairs of small scissors, including kid's blunt point for plane rides and one for tiny detail cutting.
•    §  Needles - You can get universal needles for both hand sewing and machine sewing. Having a set of each is great for any sewing you might need to do, at least for a start.
•    §  Feet - For your sewing machine. The piece that comes down and helps to hold your fabric as it's fed through the machine is called a foot. Beyond your basic foot that came with your machine, you should have a zipper foot and a blind hem foot is a nice thing to have. Often the zipper foot comes with your machine. A button hole foot can be helpful, too. It helps you to make buttons holes in uniform sizes.
•    §  Marking tools - I have a blue pencil and a white pencil that can be washed out. I've found that's all I need. I used to have sheets of colored wax paper and the little pizza cutter-like tracing tool, but I've found that having the two pencils is just as effective and takes up less room. Tailor's chalk is handy for, well, tailoring and making larger marks.
•    §  Measuring tools - I have about a hundred cloth measuring tapes. Not really, but it seems like it. I have on upstairs, one by my ironing board, one in my travel kit, one by my machine... I have a few templates for cutting shapes for quilts, too, but you can go really crazy with those things. You can get a template for every shape you can imagine. Just go to the quilting department of your local sewing shop and you'll see what I mean. I've found that I really only need a couple of rulers and I do like my hexagons and easy Dresden templates.
• 
  
•     What are remnants  and fat quarters, and what can I make with them? 
•   Remnants are pieces of fabric one yard or less. Usually they are offered at a discount.
•   Fat Quarters are pieces that equal a quarter yard but are 20" x 18" instead of 9" x 40". They are almost always 100% cotton and are typically found in the quilter's department.  
•   §  Gifts - rems and FQs are just the right size for making small gifts, bags, pillows, potholders, water and wine bottle covers, soft body dolls. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination.



Add caption

•   §  Repairs - they are also great to have on hand for repairs. Rather than paying the price for a hunk off the bolt, check the remnant bin for a suitable fabric to patch a garment. I also prefer this to pre-made iron-on patches. By the way, the smallest amount that sellers can cut for purchase is 1/8 yard or 4.5 inches. Depending on the fabric, you may find a rem for less than you would pay for that 1/8 yard.

I hope this helps you get ready for your next trip to the fabric store.

• 
  
• 
  
• 
  

• 
  

Mission Accomplished: Part 1!

A couple of posts ago I mentioned that I was going to go through all of my UFOs and try to get them done. Well, I finished one today! Huzzah! I made a pair of pajama pants. Several years ago I worked at a local Hancock Fabrics and I bought some really cute Hallowe'en flannel with little witch kitties on it. I had it sitting with its pattern and grosgrain ribbon for the drawstring for, Oh, let's go with 4 years. No. Really. FOUR YEARS.
I realized as I was laying out the pattern that I probably needed a half yard more for full-length pants, and since I didn't want flannel shorts, I decided to make them cropped pants. Clam-digger style. I'm wearing them to bed tonight. Yes, yes, I am. I know it's January. I'm still gonna wear them.

Cute Witchy-Poo Kitties with cats-eye glasses and, though it's hard to tell here, skull tags on their collars.

I'm so excited to wear these, you have know idea. It's like I've finally gotten a pony for Christmas.

I also made a skirt out of a pretty woven plaid I picked up last summer. I lined it with fabric left over from a costume I made when I lived in New York City in the 90s - fuchsia satin! I don't have a pic of the skirt yet, because I still have to put in the zip, but I'm going to take that to Sewtropolis and see if someone there can give me a hand with it. Plus I used thread from a different project that happened to go with it, and I ran out. Of course I did. But I saved the spool so I can take it along for matching.
I had enough scraps of the plaid to have a little fun. I've wanted to make little stuffed animals for a while, especially orangutans (I'm a huge orang fan). So I took a sheet of card stock (left over from a calendar packaging instert) and traced out a pattern. I also have a bunch of cotton circles cut out from when I made a Dresden Plate quilt a couple of Summers ago. I used one of those for the face and used fabric pens to color the face on. That way there aren't any buttons to come off.

I'm not entirely happy with it, but I don't hate it, either. I know how/where I'm going to change up the pattern but I figured, as long as I had some extra supplies, it wasn't going to cost anything to try.

I have this sort of fantasy where I'm making a bunch of these (or similar) for the baby orangutans in the nursery at Orangutan Outreach. I know they give stuffed animals to the babies and I hope they would like them, especially since they're typically orphaned and alone. I think it would be wonderful if there was a baby orang who wanted to hang on to one of my stuffies. Nothing would please me more! I'm currently looking for someone who might be able to help me with this dream project, so let me know if you're interested. 

So there are three, count 'em, three of my UFOs completed! I have no idea what project I'll tackle next, so stay tuned...

Assignment: Have you been going through *your* UFOs? No? I'm beating you? You aren't going to let li'l ol' me get my projects done first, are you?

February Field Trip Scheduled

Our February 21st Field trip Friday is going to be to the JoAnn Fabric and Craft store in Edina. It's in the Yorktown Mall at 3411 Hazelton (between York and France Avenues).
I'm working on a syllabus of sorts, but some of the topics I plan on covering are as follows:

Finding the right pattern for you
How to read those bolt labels
Which thread is right for your project?
Handy Tools! What do I really need?
What the heck can I make with a remnant?

We'll meet at JoAnn's at 10 am just inside the entry. Plan on being there about an hour. I can manage 5 or 6 "students" to keep things within the time frame. I'll be there regardless, but please email me at totallytoots10@gmail.com if you're interested in joining me and if you have any topics you'd like me to address. I have bright auburn hair and fuchsia/red glasses, you can't miss me.
Bring a way to take notes and any questions you may have. If you're working on a project and you're stuck, I'll be more than happy to see if I can help you with it, so bring that along.